- Table Size 30 3/16” by 60 3/8” by 2” (96 x
- Leg length 29 5/8”
- Table height 30 3/16” above ground
- Sneeze Guard Mount Holes 7 13/32” and 22 13/32” from
edge of table
Sneeze Guard Dimensions
- Sneeze Guard Size 18” by 30”
- Sneeze Guard Height 16” above table
- Sneeze Guard Holes 7 1/2” from edge to center of
1/4” Slot 1” from bottom
- Bridge Sneeze Guard 46.25” by 60.25”; need two for
Building the Tables
SECTION 1- Items needed
- 1x 4’x8’ 1/2 plywood, cut per drawing (please save scraps; if
cut properly 2 sheets can produce 4 tables)
- 2x (per table) 8’ 2x2 boards (quality important - avoid warping,
- Screws: (see pic) (quantity needed per table)
- 4x 2.5” #8 drywall screws (for the ends)
- 22x 1.25” #8 drywall screws (to attach the top to the
sides) (If you have something with a flat head and similar
dimension to these drywall screws, substitution is
acceptable... although note the maximum thickness of the table top
will be 2” !!!)
- 16x 1” #10 sheet metal screws (for the table legs)
(substitution is discouraged)
Folding Table Legs
As of 2005, Ace Hardware stocked the folding table legs used on the
tables... they run $20 for a pair.
Tools and Supplies
- phillips screwdriver/screw gun
- radial saw (to cut plywood), if not cut at the store
- handsaw/miter saw (to cut 2x2)
- bottle of wood glue
- measuring tape
SECTION 2- Cutting the wood
To start off, it is encouraged to build tables 4 at a time to
maximize the plywood, which is one the most expensive elements of
building these tables. Two sheets of 4’x8’ plywood can
yield 4 table tops. But, these instructions are perfectly fine if
you just want to build 1 table.
To begin, when purchasing the plywood, if you have the lumber store
cut it, please have it cut per this drawing.
Please note that the fractions of inches are highly important-
do NOT cut short!
If only building one table, use the large 30 3/16
x 60 3/8 piece
If building 4 tables, use all pieces from two
sheets of plywood.
either way, please keep the scraps- they will come in
Please note that the
fractions of inches are highly important- do NOT cut it to
Otherwise, you can buy the sheet from the store and cut it
yourself with a radial saw (again, the fractions of inches are important do NOT
Once cut, you should have four big pieces and lots of
scrap strips. Take the 60 3/8 x 30 3/16 piece, and save the rest for
Now get two 2x2s, and cut them to form the pattern shown
Again the lengths are important (especially the fractions of
inches) so cut carefully and precisely.
Building the tabletop
place the plywood over the 2x2s and fasten the plywood to
the 2x2s using the 1.25” drywall screws using this pattern:
(NOTE: placing a bead of wood glue between the 2x2s and the
plywood is an optional but encouraged activity)
(Tip- drill pilot holes
through the plywood makes screwing it down easier)
Here’s a close up of the corners- note we don’t go
all the way into the corner since we will be using the longer drywall
screws to tighten the ends.
Once the plywood is thoroughly fastened to the 2x2 'frame',
use the longer drywall screws to secure the end, as seen in the above
close up, and in this picture:
Now turn the top over, and
using some of the scrap pieces of plywood, arrange a sort of mounting bracket
for the table legs, as seen here:
Arrange the legs as seen in
this picture. Note that the legs are slightly off set... that allows them
fold neatly into the tabletop.
NOTE: bigger pieces of 1/2”
plywood can be used, and is even encouraged- the important bit is that it is
1/2” thick, for proper spacing.
Once you have the scraps of
plywood arranged in the proper pattern, glue them to the table top with a
generous amount of wood glue.
Let the glue dry for an
hour or two.
splicing two smaller pieces of plywood to make a
If you bought 2 or more
sheets of plywood and had them cut per the drawing in section 2, then you can
use the other pieces to make additional table tops.
The 2x2 pattern is the same
as a one piece of plywood table; just mount the 2 smaller pieces as seen
You may see a gap between the
two pieces of wood- that’s okay, just make sure the outer corners line up with
the 2x2 frame.
To add additional strength to
these 'spliced' table tops, turn them over and wood glue some 2x2 scraps over
the seam, as seen here:
HINT: make sure they won’t
interfere with the operation of the legs; try arranging all the components first
After the glue has dried,
turn the table back over, and to add even more security, screw a few 1.25”
drywall screws through the plywood into the blocks you just glued, as seen
attaching the legs
The store bought legs should
come with some 1/2” sheet metal screws to attach them to a table surface-
you don’t need them. You will be using the 1” screws mentioned in section
This allows us to have a more
secure attachment between the legs and the table, as seen
Once attaching the legs has
been completed, put the rubber ’feet’ that came with the set of legs on the
NOTE: don’t use other
aftermarket table feet products, such as crutch tips or adjustable table
feet- they will add additional height to the table, and cause it to not
match up with other tables.
enjoying your table
Your completed table should
Practice folding and
unfolding the legs to break them in. Also, using some sandpaper or a
file, go over the wood to remove splinters and rough
spots- you hands will thank you for it later.
NOTICE: these tables are light duty tables designed to hold lego
displays. They are NOT designed to sit on, sleep on, or stack heavy items